The original Bonnetmaker’s ‘Lockit Book’ does not start until 1660. The
explanation for that is found in the first entry
The opening entry in the 1660 book states “The quilk day the bonitmaker Craft of
Dundie, Reprentive, takine to consideratione the loss and want of their ould and
antient bouck of their acks and kiper on ther measters neams in Register, by the
storme and intakine of our forsaid brugh by the Inglisis, upon the first of
September in anno a thousand six houndreth fiftie ane His now creat and made
this present bouck instead and place thereof, to contean and pres-ve our ould
and antient acks and statutes that was continit in that former lost bouck by our
wyse antesstours, and quhat we in our tymes can think expedient and profitable,
or the neirist way for the honour of God and our own weill. And alsu for all
thos that schall by the providence of God, sucsed to our bonitmaker crof of
dindie in all tyms heirafter”
In modern English this translates to “Today, the whole Bonnetmaker Craft of
Dundee considered the loss and need for their old Book of Acts, and records of
the names of their registered Masters, by the storming and taking of the Burgh
by the English on the 1st September 1651. We now create this present book in its
place to contain and preserve the Acts and Statutes, made by our wise ancestors,
which were in the old Book, along with those that we think expedient and to our
benefit, in the best way to honour God and ourselves. Also for all those who by
the grace of God shall follow us in the Bonnetmaker Craft of Dundee hereafter.”
This is the only book in which we find proof that it was General Monck who was
responsible for the loss of an earlier book.
However the Bonnetmakers do have two of their ‘Seals of Cause’. These were
parchments given by the burgh allowing the Bonnetmakers to have and elect a
Deacon, and to elect senior Masters of the Craft to frame Acts, Statutes and
Ordinances for the governing of the Craft and for the protection of its members.
The first of the seals of cause is dated 1496, proving that the Trade was
organising itself by that date, although it may well have been in existence much
earlier.
Like the other Crafts, the Trade controlled the number of Masters, by limiting
them to have only one apprentice at a time, and even forbidding any apprentices
for a number of years when the number of Masters was too great.
Dundee was the first Scottish Burgh to have a Bonnetmaker Craft. This is
probably because the first bonnets were derived from those worn by clergymen
coming from Europe. Dundee was the second burgh of Scotland and its trading and
educational links with Europe made it very important and wealthy. Many merchants
and nobles sent their sons to the University of Leydon to finish their
education.
It is very likely therefore, that they were copied from the priests from Europe,
(who wore bonnets which were small versions of what were to become Dundee
bonnets). George Wishart, the martyr and John Knox, were frequent travellers to
Europe, and wore similar bonnets.
Bonnetmakers plied their Trade from outside their houses.
Sadly no Dundee bonnet exists today and there are no accurate descriptions.
However we do know something about these bonnets. They were made of knitted
wool, and graded as “gryt or muckle”, using 18 ounces of wool, “Mangrel”,
meaning mongrel, “lang middlin”, down to “meikle” of as little as six pounds
weight and knitted in a circular fashion.
Either way they were very heavy indeed and the larger ones would have been wide
enough to hang down over the ears and back of the neck in very bad weather. A
man would put his bonnet on along with his trousers and did not take it off
again until he went to bed at night. They would be handed down from father to
son, and the original saying to a young man was “You’ll never fill your fathers
bonnet”. It was not until much later that the word shoes, replaced bonnet.
Dundee bonnets were black, usually worn by the middle classes, or blue, for the
working classes. A few bonnets were made in russet colour. Whatever else we do
know, it is certain that the “toorie” in black, blue or red was developed in
Dundee. Blue bonnets became associated with the marauding folk from the glens,
and so were less popular in the Burgh, and when the Highland Regiments were
raised they were associated with soldiers the famous “Blue bonnets over the
border.” By the 1700’s, however these were mostly made in Stewarton, but were
known in Dundee as ‘Glasgow Bonnets’.
A likely reason why there is no Dundee bonnet is because they were not worn by
the Nobles, but only by the working classes. They were handed down from father
to son until they literally fell to pieces. No one would think it necessary to
keep something like that for posterity. However the National Museum of Scotland
owns one or to early bonnets and we assume that they were taken from a similar
style as the Dundee bonnet.
The Bonnetmakers were constantly worrying about the quality of the colour of
ther bonnets. This was because of the folks living in “Rottenrow”, as the
Hilltown was known, found it very easy to knit bonnets and smuggle them into the
burgh for sale. Hilltown was eventually swallowed up by Dundee and latterly all
the bonnet makers worked there, hence the name ‘Bonnethill’ as it was known by
the locals.
By around 1700 the Dundee Bonnetmakers were already having trouble. It would
appear that they had not been abitious enough and the Trade had been slowly
slipping away from them to Stewarton, who were very successsful at marketing
themselves. In 1726 “Glasgow Bonnets” as they were known were finding their way
into Dundee. The Craft realised that they were being bought by their own members
and being sold as made by them. After all only goods made in the Burgh could be
sold from the Market Booths and after they had been shown to the Bailies at the
Mercat Cross, where taxes were collected. The Trade therefore decreed that if
anyone was discovered selling these bonnets, the fine would be three pounds for
the first offence and doubled for every further offence. This was a swingeing
fine and must have, at the very least, driven the trade underground.
The use of a Mortcloth was a valuable source of income for the Trade. In 1682 a
new one was purchased and shown to the Masters. Rules were formulated saying
that the cloth could only be used on a hard coffin, that it could not be used at
night. The old cloth was to be used at night and the new one delivered for
daytime use at 8 a.m. Finally only well behaved members and those who had always
paid their dues on time could have it’s use. Even when dead, the Trade still had
a hold over you.
In 1590, Masters were condemned and punished for “playing in the fields at time
of preaching”.
In 1665 a fine of Forty shillings was imposed if any Master transgressed on a
Sunday, particularly if he was found drinking in a public house during the
Service.
Breaking the Sabbath was again condemned in 1684. Masters were given a list of
fines for things like laying out their bonnets to dry, laying their clothes out
to dry, hanging their fish out to dry, carrying water from the well, washing
their meat, or visiting their neighbours, and particularly the taking of ale
during the time of the service. If however the wife was in travail, or her
children or elderly folk were sick, that would be accepted as good reason for
these misdemeanours.
Misbehaved Masters were punished regularly. In 1686 David Barclay “one of our
most misbehaved and ill disposed brothers of Craft” had been censured and fined
several times. Finally, having confessed to scandalous behaviour and ill
neighbourhood, swore that both he and his family would behave in future and was
again fined, but in addition a scale of fines for himself and his family was
laid down, partly depending on exactly who was insulted. For example, insulting
the Deacon cost four times as much as insulting an ordinary Member. If he was
found guilty twice, he would be banished from the Craft. In other words he could
no longer work and sell his own goods.
The last working Bonnetmaker, Adam Hill Stirton, from the Wellgate was entered
into the Craft in 1796 and died just before his hundredth birthday in 1848.
The oath taken by the new Master was similar to that of all the other Crafts
(They were presumably written by the Clergy) and had great religious
significance. However in September 1797, one Alex. Robertson refused to take
this oath and promised only “declaring as an honest man, to be a peaceable
member of society, and of his Craft, to promote the interests of this Craft, and
of the widow and orphan belonging thereto, and to do nothing prejudicial
thereto, and to endeavour to make concord where discord is”.
This was accepted by the Craft. The original oath was never used again and this
is the form of words used by men entering the Trade today.
A squabble between the Nine Trades and the Bonnetmaker’s over representation on
the Burgh Council made the Bonnetmakers (who were down to only one Master),
decide to become the first “open “ Craft and undoubtedly saved them as a Craft
today, albeit as a social and charitable organisation with no Craft members.
Today the membership is strongly representative of the professions, as well as
the business community. The legal, medical and accountancy professions are very
much at home as Bonnetmakers, and the craft now has by far the largest
membership of all.
On 30th July 1904, Sir James Ritchie, a Dundonian and the then Lord Mayor of
London, joined the Craft. A photograph commemorating the admission is in the
keeping of the Clerk.
Thomas Winton presented the Gavel used at Meetings of the Craft to the craft in
1838. It is made of walnut from a tree planted in the grounds of Balmerino Abbey
around 1566 by Queen Mary, wife of James V and mother of Mary queen of Scots.
It meets regularly, takes part in all the nine Trades business and has produced
many Deacon Conveners of the Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee.
Like all the Trades it survives by changing to fit the times in which it works,
and again like the others is proud that it has much to offer the people of
Dundee.
by Innes A. Duffus
Archivist to the Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee.