The Dyer Craft has had a very difficult history, mainly because of the social
habits of the time and some very strange laws, which kept them as one of the
smaller of the Crafts.
There were originally two separate Trades, The Waulkers and the Listers.
Waulkers: Dress cloth- Fullers of cloth.
Webs were often taken to Waulk Mills in country.
Lister - Old Scots word for Dyer.
The Listers were not originally one of the Nine Incorporated Trades. Along with
the Maltmen, and other crafts, they were Pendicles of the Guildry Incorporation.
The result was that they did not enjoy many of the privileges of the other
Trades, and did not have a Deacon as such. The senior member of the Craft was
known as the Visitor and was under the governance of the Guildry.
The Waulkers on the other hand were one of the Nine Trades. This gave them much
greater authority in the town including a voice on the Town Council.
The Listers were very few in numbers.
Until as late as the 18th Century Sumptuary Laws (These limited private
expenditure in the interests of the state) dictated how the various classes
could be dressed. The vast bulk of the people, the poorer Scots, therefore, were
only allowed by Law to wear rough garments of white or grey cloth, which was
neither fulled nor dyed. It is interesting to note that legally whores were
allowed to dress above their station and wear cloth which was dyed.
Obviously, the numbers of people who could wear dyed cloth was very limited.
Another reason for the small numbers was that 'Blaksteris', who used bark to
produce black dye, were allowed to practice outwith the Craft. Even worse, Guild
Brothers and Merchants, with some restrictions, were allowed to set up their own
vats and dye material in any true colour. They could also employ anyone to do
this work.
Bonnetmakers were also allowed to dye their own work.
All of this left very limited work indeed for the poor Dyers.
The two crafts had led individual lives until the time came when they could see
that it was to their mutual advantage to unite.
This contract of union was prepared and signed on 2nd may 1693; and the union
completed by a Charter signed by William & Mary, signed at Kensington 28th
February 1694 and ratified by the King and Estates on 17th July 1695. Thus the
whole body of Listers was absorbed into the Waulker Craft, and the united Craft
was known as the Waulker Craft and Incorporation.
The Dyers as a Trade were always struggling to find enough members to keep
active and indeed in 1823 there was only one member of the Craft left. The Nine
Trades could not let the Trade fall for lack of numbers and therefore appointed
three managers to the Waulker Incorporation of Dundee, inter alia, for the
purpose of giving admission on the usual terms to apprentices and others
applying to become members. These managers on 12 October 1840 admitted: Alex J
Warden, manufacturer and dyer: Chas. Norrie, merchant and dyer: and David
Halley, merchant and dyer, in Dundee, to be free members of the Incorporation.
Because none of the three was a practical dyer, although they were dyers on an
extensive scale by employing many men in the Trade, of Dying, there were
objections made to their admission.
This was tested in The Court of Session, who found against the three, who were
repaid their dues and renounced their interest in the Trade. Shortly after this
several new practising dyers were admitted into the Craft, thus keeping it
alive.
In the Laws of the trade, after the payment of his dues the apprentice "Shall
immediately receive the word, with tokens sufficient to answer that he is
lawfully brothered to the trade professeth". Later in the Laws a fine of
sixpence was to be imposed on anyone who revealed the "Word, Chap or Whistle" to
any person, apprentice or journeyman before he was entered a brother. These
references have obvious overtones of Masonic practices which all of the trades
were reputed to be associated with, although there is no direct reference to
Free Masonry in any documents which have yet come to light.
Form of oath taken by entrants to the Craft and dated 9th April 1529 reads.
I shall obey the eternal Lord my God, creatour of heaven an earth. I shall
maintaine, fortifie, and defend his holy gospell presently profest amongst us,
so far as lies in me. I shall declin at no time therefra, I shall be loyall to
our soueragin the king and his successors, to Prouest and bailies of this brough,
and to the deacone and members of the Incorporation - I shall make concord among
the brethern where discord is - I shall fortifie the commonweall - I shall us
myself cristianly in my calling , and shall us no
fraudfull dealing in my craft - I shall relieu the poore and neide, and help and
support th widows and orphans according to my pouer - I shall assist my brethern
of the Craft in all respects that tends to the welfar thereof. I shall com to
oney plac apointed for conuientione and giu my best aduice to my brethern. - I
shall neur contrawen directly or indirectly my saids brethern of craft - I shall
be na mutineir nor raiser of tumult, and shall obey all Laus and Saitutis made
and to be made for the wellfoir of the said craft - And this I promise, God
helping me.
There is no remaining record of exactly when the Craft formally adopted the name
Dyer and their Lockit Book has long been lost. The present book has the name
Dyer on the front cover, but this was the old Waulker's Book rebound, again at
some unknown date.
The Trade of Dyer slowly faded away again over the years, leaving only the
Stevenson family as its mainstay in the 20th Century. Eventually, in 1996 the
remaining three members of the Craft met to decide its future. They agreed that
with the passage of time new Crafts had replaced much of what the dyers of old
had done and they agreed to partially open the Craft to others. They resolved,
therefore that anyone whose occupation involved working with colour, in any
sense, could apply for membership.
Thus photographers and artists have become members of the Ancient and Honourable
Craft.
It is not envisaged that the Dyers will ever become large in numbers, but in
common with the other Crafts are following the practice of their forebears in
moving with the times.
The Dyers place in history is assured and by this action their future looks
secure. They look forward, as always, to a long and successful future.
by Innes A. Duffus
Archivist to the Nine Incorporated Trades of Dundee.